Bonzai-Pipeline
As I lay there, legs half covered with sand, the water’s foamy ripples receded, and once again my pale skinned feet were revealed. The cool moist breeze whisked through my hair, filling it with salt and sand, typical things one could find at a beach in Hawaii. The sun, lying eastward, slowly began to show its scalp, and provided a silhouette for every water droplet that trickled down my arm. In the distance, seagulls boomeranged around the life-guard posts, shrieking like howling monkeys. Behind me, lay the famous sand dunes of Oahu, whose tall blades of sun-tarnished grass, swayed freely back and forth. Although the tranquility of the scene induced in me a sense of euphoria, my true passion was yet to be ignited. The adrenaline surge was building the more I scoped out the perfect surfing conditions just ahead of me.
Monday, September 15, 2008
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